El Chorrillo: Living memory and Black resistance 35 Years after the U.S. invasion

December 20, 1989, is a date I will never forget. It was a Tuesday, an ordinary day, until something in the air warned me that the calm was about to shatter. After an appointment with the dentist, I noticed birds flying erratically, making strange noises. I wondered, Why are they so restless? What are they foretelling?

The Author, Argelis Wesley, Circa 1989

When I returned to the apartment my mother and I had moved into just six days earlier, I tried to distract myself by watching an NBA basketball game. However,  at midnight, an unprecedented noise woke me. In the distance, Cerro Ancón was lit by flashes and  engulfed in explosive sounds.

Having no landline due to the recent move and barely knowing my neighbors except for two of them, I had no one to contact. Local radio stations  were off the air and the only available information came from the U.S. Army's  TV channel stationed in the former Panama Canal Zone, colloquially known as "the people's  TV cable." It was then that my mother and I realized Panama was being invaded by the world’s largest army.

The invasion of December 20th left a profound wound in the Panamanian population, but one place in particular keeps its memory alive: El Chorrillo. This neighborhood, home to a large Black population, traces its roots back to the construction of the Panama Canal between 1904 and 1914. Many of its residents arrived from the Caribbean region, bringing with them a rich cultural heritage that shaped the neighborhood's identity. The wooden buildings reflected Caribbean architecture, while the residents cultivated knowledge, flavors, and traditions through biological and cultural exchange—elements that remain vibrant and alive throughout Panama City today.

However, El Chorrillo was invaded, destroyed, burned, and desecrated on that fateful day - December 20, 1989. Thousands fled barefoot and terrified, many watched as their homes collapsed under the flames and disappeared in the chaos. Others witnessed point-blank executions and the violation of fundamental rights. Some chose to leave the place they had called home since birth.

Today, 35 years later, we still do not know how many people died or how many bodies were buried in mass graves. Nor do we fully understand how this brutal incident affected the mental health and well-being of El Chorrillo’s generations, from children to adults. The violence that persists in the neighborhood today is deeply rooted in that painful past and remembering these moments urges us to reflect on their legacy.

When discussing the level of violence present today in El Chorrillo, it is impossible to overlook the legacy of that tragic Tuesday in December 1989. This neighborhood, located in the heart of Panama City, was brutally devastated by the U.S. invasion, and since then, its community has been systematically abandoned by the state. Promises of reconstruction and support never fully materialized, and the scars of that initial violence are still evident in the lack of opportunities, structural poverty, and social stigma its residents face daily.

However, this reality has not broken the spirit of those who call El Chorrillo home. Black resistance in this neighborhood has demonstrated an impressive ability to transform pain into collective action and community solidarity. Despite state neglect, the people of El Chorrillo have fought to rebuild their dignity, creating mutual support networks, cultural projects, and spaces where historical memory is preserved as a tool for justice and social transformation.

AfroResistance, an organization dedicated to the buen vivir (well-being) of all Black families and communities across the Americas, embodies its mission that resonates with the example of El Chorrillo. Our organization seeks to amplify the voices of Black communities in the Americas as we promote human rights, democracy, solidarity, and justice. In this sense, El Chorrillo’s history serves as a reminder to how Black resistance has transformed tragedy into collective action and how the fight for racial justice and dignity has never wavered.

In October of this year, during an international delegation we organized in Panama, we met with Efraín Guerrero, founder of Movimiento Identidad, a nonprofit organization dedicated to preserving the cultural heritage of historic neighborhoods like El Chorrillo and Santa Ana. This important meeting allowed us to gain deeper insight into how El Chorrillo remains a space of resistance and how younger generations continue to carry the torch of dignity and justice.

AfroResistance Delegation 2024 with Efrain Guerrero from Movimiento Identidad

Efraín, born and raised in Huerta Sandoval, in the Santa Ana district bordering El Chorrillo, has dedicated his life to promoting sustainable tourism with a critical and committed perspective. His approach acknowledges that areas often labeled as “unsafe” are perceived this way due to class and racial prejudices that overlook the reality and value of the people who live there. For the local community, these streets are not dangerous but rather territories of living history, resistance, and vibrant culture.

Efraín envisions these areas as places brimming with immense cultural potential, where urban spaces can be transformed into open-air museums showcasing the rich local history, traditions, art, and gastronomy of the community. Through his work, Efraín has not only highlighted the heritage of El Chorrillo but also challenged the negative narratives imposed from the outside, shedding light on the resilience and pride of its residents.

Human mobility is a natural right, but the military invasion of a country is not. To the new generations who visit El Chorrillo, I urge you to remember those who chose not to migrate, those who remained in this neighborhood—a cradle of people rich in creativity, determination and courage. El Chorrillo is not just a physical space; it is a legacy that transcends time and symbolizes the strength of a people who have never ceased to resist..

Today, as AfroResistance, we continue to fight to ensure that the memory of this pain is not forgotten but instead drives action for justice and the well-being of Black communities. El Chorrillo is just one example of how resistance and historical memory are essential in advancing the struggle for dignity and justice.